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What is the best way to travel around the Cabot Trail? Clockwise or counter-clockwise?

This question has been asked countless times and depending on who you ask, there are countless answers.

The truth is – BOTH ways are amazing!

But that really doesn’t help someone who is looking for hidden gems, photo spots, top hiking trails, and more while planning their trip around the Cabot Trail.

It also doesn’t answer other frequently asked questions, such as:

  • Which way is the best way to get to the Cabot Trail?
  • Do you recommend any stops, attractions, places to eat, etc. along the Cabot Trail?

You’ve asked… so WE’VE asked our Travel Counsellors at each of the five Nova Scotia Visitor Information Centres and our Contact Centre what their recommendations are to experience the best of Cape Breton Island’s famous Cabot Trail. We’ve compiled their suggestions below to help you plan your trip around the Cabot Trail.

Sunset on the Cabot Trail

Which is the best way to travel around the Cabot Trail – clockwise or counter-clockwise?

  • “Both ways provide great scenery and a number of spots to pull over and enjoy walking/hiking trails, views from the look-offs, and the numerous coastal villages along the route. The direction the visitor takes will depend on what they plan to see prior to their trip around the Cabot Trail such as experiencing the Acadian charm and culture of Chéticamp or the Scottish culture of Cape Breton which would lead to a visit at the St. Ann’s Gaelic College.” – Yarmouth Contact Centre travel counsellors
  • “I prefer to travel counter-clockwise because it gives passengers a thrilling ride. As the driver, I love going up and down Cape Smokey Mountain near Ingonish.” – Peggy’s Cove Visitor Information Centre travel counsellors
  • We usually suggest counter-clockwise unless you are driving in a larger vehicle (5th wheel or an RV), as clockwise makes the climbs easier. Also, driving counter-clockwise can be a bit daunting for those scared of heights but easier on the driver! – Amherst Visitor Information Centre travel counsellors
  • “I prefer to drive the Cabot Trail clockwise as I like the view although some prefer the feeling that you are hugging the mountains as it’s less intimidating.” – Peggy’s Cove Visitor Information Centre travel counsellors
  • “Counter-clockwise – I love driving UP Cape Smokey and the view overlooking Ingonish on the way down and I love the views as you come around the west side of Cape Breton as you get closer to Chéticamp. You also have easy access to most pull-offs / look-offs in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park by going in this direction as many will be on the right side.” Halifax Stanfield Airport Visitor Information Centre travel counsellors
  • “Drive along the coast for the entire Cabot Trail: head across the Canso Causeway toward Baddeck, take the Englishtown Ferry and enjoy the view, by car or bike! This is recommended as one of Lonely Planet’s top bike rides in the world and if you are planning to bike the Cabot Trail, go with Freewheeling Adventures.” – Yarmouth Contact Centre travel counsellors
  • “I love driving clockwise – again beautiful views, some of my favourites being between Margaree and the National Park entrance just past Chéticamp, with a few look-offs to the right, especially the one that overlooks Pleasant Bay – breathtaking! Be sure to start your drive on the Ceilidh Trail to follow the coastline to the Cabot Trail in Margaree too. I love driving DOWN Cape Smokey too – hang on tight and enjoy the ride. I really don’t think there is a wrong way to travel the Cabot Trail.”
Cabot Trail, Cape Breton Island

Where should you start from on the Cabot Trail?

Depending on where you are arriving from – mainland Nova Scotia or elsewhere on Cape Breton Island – you have a number of options where you can hop on the Cabot Trail. Here are the most commonly used entrances onto the Cabot Trail:

  • Take the Ceilidh Trail (Route 19) from Port Hastings as you enter Cape Breton Island to meet the Cabot Trail in Margaree Forks
  • Drive along Hwy 105, passing alongside the Bras d’Or Lake and hop on the Cabot Trail in Nyanza/Baddeck at Exit 7
  • Jump on the Cabot Trail at St. Ann’s Bay (Hwy 105 Exit 11)
  • Take the Englishtown Ferry (Hwy 105, Exit 12)

What stops, attractions, places to eat, shop, activities, etc. do you recommend doing around the Cabot Trail?

Believe us when we say there is a LOT to see & do around the Cabot Trail including many “hidden gems”!  Here are some staff recommendations:

Favourite stops along the Cabot Trail include:

  • Black Brook Beach near Ingonish for a refreshing jump in the waves, waterfall and short hiking trail.
  • Meat Cove at the very tip of Cape Breton Island (exit the Cabot Trail at Cape North).
  • Hike or walk the Skyline Trail (easy and stroller and wheelchair accessible) and Franey Trail (more challenging hike) in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Every trail within the National Park is amazing and worth hiking!
  • Take in the beautiful views at Hide Away Campground & Oyster Market with fresh oysters available at the camp headquarters!
  • In Chéticamp, stop for butter tarts and cinnamon buns at the La Boulangerie Aucoin Bakery and for coffee and local art, head to Sunset Art Gallery for wonderful, whimsical, one-of-a-kind carvings and paintings by well-known Acadian artist William Roach. You will also discover works and gifts by several other Cape Breton artists. While there, enjoy an espresso and other specialty coffees at the Frog Pond Cafe.
  • Big Spruce Brewing in Nyanza for a locally made beer.

Amherst Visitor Information Centre staff shared three staff favourites:

  • St. Ann’s Gaelic College / Great Hall of the Clans: beautiful property and gift shop, great demonstrations by staff and faculty members including milling frolics, kilt-making, music and dancing over lunch!
  • Whale Interpretive Centre in Pleasant Bay: learn about the ecosystems in the area before a whale watching tour.
  • A visit to Ingonish would not be complete without a ride up Cape Smokey on the gondola! The first gondola in eastern Canada at Cape Smokey! Four seasons of fun!
Gondola ride and the view from atop Destination Cape Smokey in Ingonish

Staff at Peggy’s Cove Visitor Information Centre’s shared some of their favourite stops along the Cabot Trail:

  • Ingonish Beach: a beautiful beach with some awesome waves – with a stay at the Keltic Lodge Resort & Spa.
  • Visiting Chéticamp and stopping in at Les Trois Pignons to learn about the French Acadian heritage and to try your hand at rug hooking. Be sure to stop at Flora’s Gift Shop, the ultimate one-stop shop.
  • Stop in Baddeck to visit the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site and stay at one of the resorts, inns, B&Bs or cottages nearby.
Centre de la Mi-Carême
Les Trois Pignons, Cheticamp
  • The picnic park at Lake O’Law Provincial Park in Margaree – it’s a great place for a lake swim. There are so many places to stop for photos but, most importantly, at the top of French Mountain and North Mountain when you’ve climbed them by bike!
  • Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site in Baddeck and be sure to go on the White Glove Tour behind the scenes to see and touch even more of Bell’s inventions! Be sure to walk along the Baddeck waterfront to take in the view.
  • Looking for a great spot to stop to eat along the Cabot Trail? The Dancing Goat Cafe & Bakery in Margaree Valley serves up sandwiches made on their fresh bread, baked goods and more. Be sure to try their homemade porridge bread if you are lucky enough to get a loaf before they are sold out for the day.
White Glove Tour at the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site, Baddeck

Staff at the Yarmouth Visitor Information Centre recommends stopping at the following locations:

Skyline Trail, Cape Breton Highlands National Park

Travel counsellors at the Halifax Stanfield International Airport Visitor Information Centre recommend the following Cabot Trail stops:

Uisge Ban Falls Provincial Park, Cape Breton Island

Additional staff recommendations for coastal detours, stops and activities:

  • Must stops include each of the 26 look-offs situated along the Cabot Trail within the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Each one offers something different for every type of hiker.
  • Be sure to take a few minutes to drive through the small village of Dingwall to take in the million dollar view of the Cape Breton Highlands mountain range overlooking the long, sandy beach in the Aspy Bay Fault area. Then, take the exit at Cape North off the Cabot Trail to visit the seaside communities of Bay St. Lawrence and Meat Cove, the northernmost community on Cape Breton Island.
  • A visit to Ingonish would not be complete without a ride up Cape Smokey on the gondola! The first gondola in eastern Canada at Cape Smokey. Four seasons of fun!
  • Go whale watching! The stunning natural beauty of Cape Breton Island from the water will literally take your breath away (oh – and the whales and dolphins are pretty amazing too!).
  • If you like taking scenic detours, you’ll want to drive the coastal route between South Harbour and Neil’s Harbour where you’ll discover the picture perfect fishing community of White Point and in Neil’s Harbour, be sure to stop by the lighthouse and treat yourself to ice cream. Seriously – there is an ice cream shop in the lighthouse!
View of Aspy Bay and Cape Breton Highlands mountain range from Dingwall

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