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The Sea of Approval

7 min Read

The Sea of Approval

Nova Scotia fish dishes get along swimmingly with flavorful local beer

Nova Scotia is Canada’s ocean playground known for its impeccably fresh seafood and a distinct culinary tradition. The North Atlantic’s rich waters supply the herring, cod, halibut, mackerel, oysters, mussels that regularly appear in the region’s culinary historical record, often in the context of some sort of chowder. Fish and shellfish helped sustain the early French colonists at Port-Royal, and the seafood also nourished the native Mi’kmaw people. Today, this heritage is carried forward by the province’s creative chefs who continue to rely on the ocean’s bounty for ingredients and inspiration. When it comes to pairings, wine has long been the default. However, a rising tide of accomplished Nova Scotian breweries is quietly flipping the script. They’re offering ales and lagers that equal the high-quality fish dishes served at seaside pubs and fine-dining destinations alike.

A stone’s throw from city hall, the Scotiabank Centre, and the oldest building in Halifax, The Five Fishermen (1740 Argyle Street, Halifax) is centrally located in the province’s largest city, making it an easy stop for hungry punters on a downtown brewery crawl. Here, in the heart of the capital, chef Greg Balingit and his team excel at imaginative interpretations of classic dishes, such as the restaurant’s southern twist on Atlantic halibut, which incorporates Cajun spices, bacon-braised collard greens, and smoked cheddar grits. Elsewhere on the menu, Balingit plays with a taste of place by serving seared scallops with green peas, locally foraged mushrooms, and bonito butter.

The Five Fisherman on Argyle Street in Halifax
The Five Fisherman on Argyle Street in Halifax

No visit to Nova Scotia is complete without several spoonfuls of chowder, and The Five Fishermen has a particularly delicious version featuring potatoes, shrimp, halibut, and scallops, plus a colorful scallion garnish. The time-tested pairing is the locally brewed Propeller Pilsener, a versatile and lightly sweet lager in the Czech style. For a beer with more body and a bolder personality, pick Temptation Red Ale from Shelburne’s Boxing Rock Brewing. The small company’s Red Ale delivers a citrusy hop bite that acts as a foil to the creamy soup, while the underlying malt character stands in for the toast you might ordinarily use to sop up the dregs at the bottom of a bowl.

Less than 30 minutes away on foot and within easy striking distance of Good Robot Brewing Company, Unfiltered Brewing, and Chain Yard Urban Cidery, The Stillwell Freehouse (2534 Agricola Street, Halifax) is the latest venture from the team behind downtown’s Bar Stillwell. As with the other Stillwell locations, beer comes first at this welcoming spot where both the menu and the space evoke the archetypal English pub, including six cask ales served via a traditional beer engine.

Good Robot Brewing Company
Good Robot Brewing Company

Case in point: the salt cod brandade pizza. It’s a fitting acknowledgement of Nova Scotia’s edible history, given how much fish the province shipped to Europe before North America’s cod stock nearly disappeared. The singular dish is topped with green onion, potato, crème fraiche, and the namesake ingredient, and it goes great with Stillwell’s Sook grisette, a dry, low-alcohol beer that gains a touch of funkiness from a mixed-fermentation process. It’s expressive enough to hold its own alongside the intense flavor of the cod and onion, without clashing or competing with the pizza.

Sometimes, the best matches take a simple approach. At Halls Harbour Lobster Pound (1157 West Halls Harbour Road, Centreville) in the eponymous fishing village opposite Cape d’Or, the menu focuses on the clawed crustacean that has sustained coastal communities like this one for generations. Located in front of one of Canada’s largest lobster holding facilities, the casual restaurant includes indoor and outdoor seating, the latter of which afford the best views of the Bay of Fundy. Order from the digital menu mounted in the gift shop, grab your obligatory selfie outside, and find an open table.

Hall's Harbour Lobster Pound
Hall's Harbour Lobster Pound

Whole lobsters are available in a range of sizes from small (1.25 pounds) to jumbo (more than 3 pounds), but this Maritime specialty is all over the menu. You’ll find the classic lobster roll, lobster mac and cheese, lobster nachos, and my favorite, lobster poutine, smothered with a house cream sauce and loaded with cheese curds along with the signature ingredient. A heavy, easily shareable dish like this calls for a lighter beer pairing, so I was glad to see Hellene Blonde Ale from Wayfarers’ Ale Society on the beverage list. Crisp and semi-dry with only the slightest hint of bitterness, this easy-drinking beer complements the flavor of the fries, while the carbonation slices through the rich sauce.

On the province’s South Shore, crowded onto a narrow spit of land just over an hour from Halifax, the town of Lunenburg attracts tourists with sailing charters and whale-watching trips, the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic, and its UNESCO World Heritage status. Unsurprisingly, this historic port is also a great place for fresh seafood. Overlooking the scenic waterfront, The Grand Banker Bar & Grill (82 Montague Street, Lunenburg) is one of the most popular restaurants in town, serving saltwater specialties like Nova Scotian mussels steamed in Garrison Brewing’s Tall Ship Amber Ale and seared scallops topped with a beurre blanc seasoned with vanilla beans and saffron.

Lunenburg is also known as Old Town Lunenburg UNESCO World Heritage Site
Lunenburg is also known as Old Town Lunenburg UNESCO World Heritage Site

If you’re only ordering one thing, choose the Lunenburger. Essentially surf and turf on a bun, this unique dish stacks a ground beef patty, smoked bacon, smoked mozzarella, and lobster meat bathed in a tarragon butter sauce between two halves of an artisan roll. And it’s garnished with a bacon-wrapped scallop. Go big by adding a side of house-made chips with cheddar Pilsner dip. Hop lovers should also try a citrusy Pale Ale or IPA from neighboring Shipwright Brewing Company.

Beyond Liverpool, another hour south down Highway 103, the population starts to thin out, but at White Point Beach Resort (75 White Point Beach Resort Road, Hunts Point) you’ll encounter an upscale dining experience with impressive views, not to mention six rotating taps from Nova Scotian breweries. Sit at the bar in the Founder’s Lounge of the main lodge if you’re in a hurry, or for a more leisurely experience, ask for a table by the windows in Elliot’s Dining Room, which overlooks the Atlantic.

White Point Beach Resort
White Point Beach Resort

In the past, the resort collaborated with Liverpool’s Hell Bay Brewing to make Salty Piper, a tart and refreshing gose-style beer with sea salt collected from its beach. Light and spritzy, this briny ale (or another like it) would pair well with lobster, as does the brewery’s flagship Dark Cream Ale. Its roasty malt notes marry the flavor of the toasted bun and the crispy chunks of crustacean, while the earthy, herbal hop character harmonizes with the garlic, onion, and poblano pepper in the dressing. A heaping plate of seafood, a cold pint of local brew, and a panorama of the ocean’s blues—what could be more Nova Scotian?

About our guest writer:
Ben Keene writes about travel, craft beer, music, and outdoor recreation for a variety of publications including TimeOut New York, DRAFT magazine, World Hum, Transitions Abroad, Wend, Edible East End, and Rails to Trails. Formerly a touring musician and an atlas editor, he has appeared on National Public Radio, Peter Greenberg Worldwide Radio, as well as other nationally syndicated programs to discuss geographic literacy. Currently living in Brooklyn, NY, Ben visited Nova Scotia in 2019, with his visit targeting on creating content on our ever-expanding brewery scene.

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