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Ingonish is a perfect fall family destination

5 min Read

Ingonish is a perfect fall family destination

By Lola Brown

For the past three years, we’ve taken our kids (now aged 13, seven, and five) to Ingonish for a long weekend in the fall. Cape Breton as a whole is amazing, and a few weeks ago we drove all the way around, but we’re already planning next year’s Ingonish break because there’s so much to see and do squeezed into a relatively small geographical area.

Here’s why we love Ingonish and think it is the perfect place to take your kids (whatever age they are).

Beaches, hikes, views for days

Ingonish Beach itself is gorgeous. The golden sands are framed by a barrier of smooth pink and grey rocks that my kids love to stack, and whenever we’ve been the surf has been gentle enough for us to feel safe with even my youngest kid splashing about in the waves. The beach backs on to a freshwater lake, so you can take a dip in there if you prefer it to saltwater, and there’s a fantastic kids’ playground between the two. There’s an easy hike you can take around the lake. We usually stay in the Parks Canada campground at Ingonish Beach, because it’s right there on the water and has excellent facilities (including tennis courts and a kiosk). This year we stayed at Broad Cove Campground (still in Ingonish) which was much quieter and a little further from its beach (still beautiful though).

There are too many hikes to list in the Ingonish area, matching all levels of ability, but we love going around Cape Smokey Provincial Park with the kids because the views out over the highlands are stunning, and there are tons of wild blueberries all over the trailhead. We’re yet to do the full 10k trail but exploring around there makes us happy.

Goats, whales, sunfish… moose?

An essential stop for us is always the Groovy Goat which has a small shop selling goat milk soap and bath bombs, and an awesome petting farm where helpful staff are only too happy to let you pet the baby goats and rabbits.

This year we did a whale watching trip with Keltic Express Zodiac Adventures which was tons of fun, even though we didn’t manage to see any whales on our trip out. Just as impressive to us though, we spotted three massive ocean sunfish, one of which swam right up to the boat. Sightings are not that common, and as they are the largest bony fish in the world – weighing up to 2.5 tons – we were super excited to observe them. Our captain on the trip was great and explained lots about the natural history of the area. We’ll try and go out with them again next year, maybe then we’ll spot a humpback or pilot whale.

There’s always a chance you’ll see moose in Cape Breton and there are signs all along the roadside warning you of their presence, but weirdly we are yet to encounter one in the wild. One day, I guess.

Groovy Goat

It is a fantastic foodie destination

Salty Rose’s and the Periwinkle Cafe might just be my favourite place in the world to have breakfast. The coffee and food is outstanding, whether you go for their housemade orange almond granola with yogurt or feast on a fat lobster roll, and there are fresh-baked treats for fussy kids (my boys love their cinnamon rolls, while the teen goes for a cheddar chive scone). The dining room is Instagram perfect, all bright-painted tables and rustic wood. Pick up local art, jewelry, and books in their gallery space.

The Coastal Restaurant and Pub does the best burgers (and waffle fries, which my kids go nuts for) and chowder. Their specialty is the Ringer Burger, topped with bacon, onion rings, and mozzarella, and it has been named the best burger in nova Scotia. They also have a sweet selection of local craft beers and ciders on tap and in bottles.

This year we drove a little north to Neil’s Harbour to the Chowder House which didn’t look like much from the outside but served up massive portions of fresh seafood. We started with mussels, followed with lobster and crab sandwiches served on white bread. It was all so perfect and tasty. Our non-seafood-loving children went with mac and cheese but whatever, they ate, and we got to enjoy our food in peace as they ran around outside on the grassy clifftops. Next to the restaurant was a lighthouse with an ice-cream kiosk, but we were too stuffed to indulge.

On past trips, we’ve always had a cocktail in the Highland Sitting Room at the Keltic Lodge feeling classy and hoping that our children behave. Call ahead to check times as it is well worth a stop and there’s a great little hike out on the headland that leaves from the hotel parking lot.

Where to stay

Although we always camp at the Parks Canada campgrounds in Ingonish, there are tons of cabins, Airbnb’s, and other places to stay in the area (from pretty basic right up to some fancy accommodations at the Keltic Lodge) so you have plenty of options.

Ingonish is one of my family’s favourite places to visit, and this is the perfect time to visit. I’m pretty sure that anyone who takes their family there will be just as smitten with the place as we are. We only just got home, but already I can’t wait for next year’s Ingonish trip.

Lobster Roll
Lobster Roll

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